Ale caters to sweet tooth

By: Mike Partel

Posted: 6/5/09

While making the usual round at the Foodery, a choice beer dispensary at Second and Poplar (which I heavily recommend to regular readers), I happened upon an eyebrow-raiser perched smugly beside others on the "new arrivals" shelf.

The brand was familiar, the Southern Tier Brewing Company, prompting me to drop a bottle, packaged neatly in its thin cardboard box, among the future reviews that brightened my make-a-six six pack. So, this week I give readers Cuvée Series Two, the second oak-aged ale that belongs in a run with two "sister" beers.

Southern Tier opened short of five years ago, operating out of Lakewood, N.Y., a small town plotted dangerously close to both Pennsylvania and Lake Erie. Phineas DeMink and Allen "Skip" Yahn founded the brewery in order to bring the small batch brewing tradition back to the region; they now produce almost 4 million 12-ounce bottles annually, claiming distribution to nearly a third of the United States and parts of Canada. In less that half a decade, the brewery has been ranked number thirty-five in the country ("BeerAdvocate," June 2007). Southern Tier has built this reputation on its flagship, "Phin & Matt's Extraordinary Ale," and a number of successful Imperial-style beers, including its signature IPA, "Unearthly," named 81st on a list of the best beers in the world (BeerAdvocate, May 2007).

To give an idea of Southern Tier's prodigious scope: According to online testimony, Cuvée Two is available on tap in Seattle, Wash.; "Quite Enjoyable," in Hazelwood, Mo; and "Solid," in Cambridge, Ontario. That's in Canada, for Natty Lite drinkers. You, dear reader, are eager to share the experiences of such far-flung brethren, however, so let's get to the beer.

The aforementioned cardboard box indicates that I've indeed purchased a 650 mL bottle (that's a bomber, if you're not familiar with the terminology) of Series Two. At 11 percent ABV, this particular brand of ale is an American Strong, a catch-all phrase used to classify a variety of American microbrews whose characters do not quite fit traditional, canonized styles. Some may resemble Barley wines and Old Ales while others are related to English Strong Ales and IPAs - you get the idea. Regardless, American Strongs are intense and potent: we like things big, and as the name suggests, this style relies on generous measures of hops and malt. Meanwhile, Cuvée Two is aged in American Oak, opposed to Series One, aged in French Oak, and Series Three, which blends the contrasting flavors of its predecessors.

Sliding the bomber out of its box, I am met with a metallic purple, but otherwise nondescript label. A small picture next to the Surgeon General's Warning suggests the use of a snifter - and when it comes to the ideal vessel, the brewers can't be wrong. Taking mine from the shelf, I pop the crown at last and let Cuvée Two loose. Hence forth, there flowed a ruby red river capped with a small, but dense, off-white head. In the nose, I can find a somewhat candied apple aroma with accents of oak, vanilla and mild raisin. This is definitely a far-reaching beer whose aromas are reminiscent of a Belgian ale aged in, appropriately, American oak barrels.

As far as flavor, this definitely follows that train of thought: a sweet caramel overtone at the front, a mild bitterness that follows closely, an almost hidden crème essence as you swallow, with a slight espresso finish to clean off the palate. The aging has paid off in this respect as the oaky vanilla does not overpower the brew and in fact, inter-laces itself, as if to be masked by the its fellow flavors. It does, however, jump to the fore at precisely the correct moment in my mind, leaving the others their own chances to shine.

I have to say, this was definitely a pleasant beer. When I saw it on the counter, I knew it would be a good call, but now, I am positively sure in that regard. As of late, I have swayed more to the "dark side" of beers, heavily enjoying stouts and porters as I had with my IPAs. They tend to have the nice aged character, being some of the more popular styles to age in American bourbon or Scotch whiskey barrels. Although Southern Tier has not taken that step to reusing the barrels for aging, I find it a welcome choice nonetheless. I would absolutely recommend this special edition for anyone with a bit of a beer sweet tooth or those that prefer all-around flavorful beers that don't favor either malty or bitter to the other.